highdef magazine

by Bradley M. Look

It seems that high-definition is infiltrating more into the cellulose domain of the entertainment industry than ever before. For the makeup artist the soft veil of film has given way to the uncompromising clarity of highdef. Images so sharp that even the most beautiful or handsome talent can have subtle imperfections visible for all to see. And with more of the viewing public buying highdef televisions they get resolution that is six times that of a normal set.

With a growing number of productions adopting the high-definition digital medium, makeup artists and hairdressers have had to do a lot experimenting to learn what works and doesn’t. Of course this isn’t unlike the process that artisans went through when Technicolor was first introduced in film or color to television.

As the old adage goes, “Less is more,” and this is quite true when applying makeup for this medium. Traditionally, a makeup artist will apply concealer to the dark areas under the eyes. The challenge is to use only enough to conceal the defect and still not be detectable on HD. This can be quite challenging considering that many manufacturers of under eye concealers can have a higher percentage of pigment in their product that can appear to be dense on camera unless properly blended down.

Traditional crème foundations will appear rather painterly and obvious on HD. Brush strokes and use of sponges can leave edges that can be detected to the unflinching HD cameras. This is precisely why the use of the airbrush has become a more common tool in the makeup artist’s bag of tricks. Even the sheer liquid foundations found in department stores have replaced many of the more traditional opaque crème foundations once a staple for every working makeup artist.

Let me take you through a standard beauty makeup application for HD. The following photos are taken from a DVD shoot which was created for the company, Zazzo, manufacturer of a complete line of stencils for the makeup artist. It should also be noted that the DVD was shot using high-def cameras. First is a before shot of our model, Menina Fortunato. (Photo 1) Her face was first cleaned using a facial soap and then followed by an alcohol free astringent. Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer was blended onto the face using a latex sponge.

A crème corrector was blended under the eyes using a filbert brush. It’s very important when using crème correctors to thoroughly blend off the edge of the product so that there is no visible line of demarcation. Translucent face powder is then lightly patted over this so as to “set” the makeup before continuing.

Several drops of an airbrush makeup (Graftobian’s Glamaire airbrush foundation was used for the demonstration) were then squeezed into the color cup of an Iwata Hi-Line double action airbrush. (Photo 2) Believe it or not, it only takes between 4 and 6 drops to do the entire face!

Beginning on the forehead, the foundation is lightly sprayed on using only approximately 4 psi! (Photo 3) Excess product is sprayed into an Iwata Cleaning Station. Contour, highlight and blush are additionally added to the face using the airbrush. To airbrush the eyelids, a Zazzo shield is lightly placed over Menina’s eyes before spraying them. (Photo 4) While the airbrush can be used safely in many areas of application of cosmetics, there are still some that should be done using standard makeup techniques. Eyeliner is defiantly one of those that should never be attempted using an airbrush! Bobby Brown Gel Eyeliner in black is applied using an extra fine point brush. Before the eyeliner has time to set, a cotton swab is used to soften out the liner. (Photo 5 on page 10) This same process is repeated on the other eye. Mascara is then applied using a fan brush to Menina’s lashes. A second coat is added to make the lashes fuller.

Lipstick is the last thing to be applied. A very natural color is added to the lips. (Photo 6 on page 10) Excess lipstick color is carefully blotted off using a facial tissue.

And there you have it. Here is Menina in her after photo. (Photo 7 on page 10)

Because an HD camera is more sensitive to reds than standard film and video equipment, many makeup artists are finding that warmer or more neutral colors read more natural. For example, coral lipsticks and blushers tend to photograph more lifelike, whereas cooler lipstick colors become more “neonish” and could look more like Rocky Horror lips!

While working on the fourth season of Star Trek Enterprise, we discovered that if an actor had any facial hair or peach fuzz next to an appliance edge, the HD cameras would mistakenly read that as a line, where none existed to the naked eye! Once I was studying the Dr. Phlox makeup that I routinely applied on one of the HD monitors and was horrified to spot the complete line to the edge of the appliance around the actor’s left eye. I raced onto the set to examine the problem closer. I soon discovered that the edge hadn’t lifted at all, but that my actor had a little peach fuzz left on his cheek that the HD camera was reading as an edge. The problem was remedied quickly by running a personal hair trimmer over the spot.

Also on the topic of facial hair, in high-definition down on a woman’s face can also become an issue needing to be addressed, as it will be quite visible on camera. Most actresses object to trimming and will use the excuse that facial hair that is either shaved or waxed comes back darker and thicker. There has never been any medical proof of that opinion. In the past film cameras were not as discerning, so makeup artists would simply flatten down the offending facial hair with an application of crème makeup. Or the actresses would try bleaching the hair. Neither of these techniques will work in highdef. So women will have to get used to the routine that men have had to endure all these years.

So the next time you think to yourself those immortal words spoken by Gloria Swanson in Sunset Boulevard, “I’m ready for my close-up, Mr. DeMille!,” check the HD monitor first to make sure your actor looks like Gloria Swanson and not Phyllis Diller.